Sunday, September 20, 2015

It's a new semester!

It's hard to believe, but we're almost a month into the fall semester here at University of Guam!  I'm taking just two classes this semester: a statistics course with heavy use of the math computer program Mathematica, and an ecological modeling course with heavy use of the modeling computer program R.  I've spent a lot of time trying to learn two completely different programming languages at the same time!

I know two classes doesn't sound like a lot, but I'm also working.  I have two work projects that I need to get finished up, both of which require lots of field days--too bad the weather has been super crappy lately!  I've only been out ONE DAY in the past month!  That is terrible.  We've had a lot of weird storms and tropical depressions the past two months.  Normally I wouldn't mind a little choppiness for a boat dive, but I have a lot of expensive and delicate gear--mainly a $14k camera rig that weighs a ton and a $30k sonde (a fancy probe that records data about temperature, salinity, turbidity, chlorophyll, etc.) that belong to the government and that I reeeeally don't want to damage.

Fortunately the bad weather hasn't stopped me from doing one of my favorite pastimes: hiking!  I've been on a couple lovely hikes this month.  A group from the lab did Tarzan Falls a few weeks ago, which is in the central part of the island.  It was pretty and short, but we were all a little worried about getting leptospirosis from the icky water!

Just 1.4 miles, nice and easy!  I think 3 hours is a lot longer than you need.

It was a nice, easy-to-follow path!

Big downhill on the way there.... means a big uphill on the way back.

I always have such great hair... not.

A lovely little river crossing!

Good luck not getting your feet wet.

Here's the start of the Tarzan Falls:

Lovely falls!

Trying (and failing) to not get my feet wet.

Big rocks!

Reminds me of the Upper Peninsula!  But more tropical.

I hate apples on Guam.  They are always mushy and gross.

We definitely don't have trees like that in Michigan.

Icky water...

A long way down...

Gotta be careful on those slippery rocks.

Them's some big rocks!

The guide I read beforehand said that there was a rope you could use to climb down from the top, but we couldn't find it.  Once we got to the bottom of the falls I found the rope--and it was more like a very long, algae-covered string.  I definitely wouldn't climb down a big waterfall on that 'rope'!

Pretty falls!

But that's some nasty water.

Worth the short hike!


A little farther downstream.

Another, less accessible waterfall.


The following weekend we went hiking at Anao, a spot way up north, just south of Anderson Air Force Base.  Another nice short hike that ends at the water!  You wouldn't want to go swimming there though--the north side of the island is all volcanic rock, and the waves are constantly crashing up against the rocks.  It makes for some very nice caves and tidepools!

The hike down was a little slippery, but well-maintained.

A great tree!

I remember 'learning' at one point that if you're lost in the forest, you can always tell which way is north because moss only grows on the north side of rocks.  I think that is a load of BS!

This plant is called a cycad!  They're a very ancient plant, kinda resembling a cross between a fern and a coconut tree.  They're long-lived and slow-growing, which is part of the reason why they're not very common on Guam-- the species here, Cycas micronesica, is endangered.  The near-total loss of the island's fruit bats (which eat cycads adn are an important distributor of the seeds) is another contributor to the cycad's decline.

A nice, healthy cycad!


But maybe it's not all bad.  Up until the 1960's, Guam had an unusually high incidence of a fatal paralyzing neurodegenerative disease known as lytico-bodig, from the Spanish "paralytico."  This disease had features similar to Parkinson's, ALS (Lou Gehrig's disease), and Alzheimer's, and occurred up to 100 times more in the Chamorro population than in the mainland US.  Interestingly, the disease only affected Chamorros, not immigrants to the island.

Doctors still don't know exactly what the disease was, but it was suspected that the disease was caused by eating the cycad fruits.  Chamorros ground the fruits into a flour and used them to make a sort of tortilla.  The fruits had to be meticulously washed, since the cyanobacteria living in the cycads' roots produced a toxin called BMAA.  Some sources say that Chamorros would give the rinse-water to chickens, and if the chickens fell ill, they knew they needed to rinse the fruit more.

However, studies of the toxin's effects found that the concentration of BMAA in the fruits wasn't high enough to produce the neurodegenerative effects.  And since the disease has all but disappeared since the 1960's, it isn't being studied much anymore.  A more recent theory suggests that the disease was actually caused by eating fruit bats, once a staple of the Chamorro diet.  The fruit bats accumulated the BMAA toxin in their fats, and it was this high dose of the toxin that caused illness.  The decline of the fruit bat population (due to the brown tree snake invasion) coincided with the decline of lytico-bodig, which lends further credibility to the theory.  But in other areas where BMAA is found in high levels the same high levels of neurodegenerative disease aren't present, so nobody is really sure.  (If you want to read more about it, check out this article from Scientific American.)


We were rewarded with a lovely view!

It took about another 10 minutes to reach the water.  See what I meant about it not being a good swimming spot?

A nice cloudy day--good for hiking!

Pretty (dead) butterfly.  These are common on Guam.

Some nice karst!

Ocean, karst, and jungle all within 100m of each other!

There were some great tide pools and a wonderful cave at Anao, but unfortunately my computer ate the rest of my photos.  I guess that just means I'll have to go back!

This past weekend was very busy.  Saturday was the day of the annual International Coastal Cleanup, and I was a site coordinator for the Marine Lab!  About 40 people came down to the Marine Lab to clean up trash bright and early Saturday morning, and we ended up with about 30 bags full of trash and recycling.  Some bigger sites, like Asan Beach Park, had trailers full of trash and over 300 volunteers!  I'm glad I was just coordinating a small site, phew!

After the cleanup, everyone got a voucher for $5 admission to Underwater World, a touristy aquarium attraction in Tumon.  I'd never been there before, so I figured why not go when it was cheap?  I was happily surprised to find that the aquarium was actually very neat, was well-maintained, and had lots of cool marine life!


The main attraction was an underwater tunnel, featuring several species of sharks, numerous reef fish large and small, a sea turtle, and the remains of a WWII Japanese fighter plane.  There were also tanks with eels, jellyfish, lionfish, and live corals.  Lots of pretties!  I only took my phone but I may go back next year with my nice DSLR camera.











Apart from hiking, I also went a concert a few weeks ago.  Remember Shaggy, that Jamaican dude who put out songs like "Wasn't Me" and "Angel" in the early 2000's?  Of course you remember.  Guam typically gets artists who are at least 10 years past their prime popularity.  That doesn't mean they're no good, just that you might have to jog your memory to remember all the words to their songs.  It was very hot and sweaty but a lot of fun!

Shaggy had a pretty cool shirt on.

Also very unusual pants.

This performance was not kid-friendly but I saw young children right up at the stage.

Ladies!

Shaggy!

More ladies!

Our Shaggy group!  (Or most of us, anyway.)



I also hurt myself last week in a really stupid way... I ran into a truck.  Or more specifically, I ran into a sheet of metal hanging off the back of a truck.  I definitely learned my lesson about running at night without my light!

Ouchies.  It actually looks a lot better in this photo than it did the few days before!

And that's what I've been up to lately!  :)

Tuesday, August 11, 2015

Hashing, diving, and dolphins!

I HAVE AN AWESOME JOB

Work has kept me busy with lots of diving!  I am working on a project for the National Park Service right now, doing benthic surveys and helping with fish surveys.  A few weeks ago the weather was awful, then we had exactly one week of fantastic weather, followed by another week of bad weather.  Apparently we're having more storms than usual this year!

I had never seen the ocean as calm as it was last week, so naturally I took a ton of photos.

So smooth!

I mean, really, could you ask for better conditions?  (No, you could not.)

Picturesque day!

Sliiiightly choppier near the reef, but still can't complain!


Our wonderful dive team consisted of me, two ladies from the Hawaii section of the National Park Service (one of whom graduated from the marine lab master's program a few years ago), and another marine lab graduate who now works for the local government.  We got along famously and everyone had a great sense of humor.  It's fantastic to have such a cohesive and friendly dive team, because when you're stuck on a boat for 8 hours every day, it makes the project so much more fun!

SUPER COOL DIVE TEAM


Every day our team met up around 7am, loaded up our gear and 13-17 tanks (3-4 dives, 1 per person per dive, plus a spare) onto the truck, and none of that stuff is light!  We'd then take that gear off the truck and load it onto the boat.  We'd do three or four dives per day, during which we lay out transects, survey fish, and take photos of the bottom.  It's pretty easy and fun!

We saw lots of wonderful stuff during our first week of diving!  In one day we had spinner dolphins on the bow of our boat, a sea turtle, an octopus, and...

WE WERE IN AN UNDERWATER EARTHQUAKE!  It was so cool!  Out of nowhere, we suddenly heard an insanely loud noise.  It sounded like a giant cruise ship was going directly over us!  It was so loud that it physically shook us, and lasted for about ten seconds.  We had no idea what it was.  When we ended the dive and boarded the boat, our captain informed us that there had been a 4.9 earthquake just 20km away!  Definitely one of the best dives I've ever done.

The water was so smooth that the dolphins got bored...

...and came to play on the waves our tiny boat was making!

I counted three or four dolphins riding our bow.

Spinner dolphins are so pretty!

They are also much smaller than bottlenose dolphins, which is what most people think of when they hear "dolphin."

If only every day could start like this!

So shiny!

My favorite photo of the day!

Aren't they tiny and cute?


None of our other days were that exciting, but I still have at least another week of diving to do on this project so who knows what else we'll see?


HASHING

Hashing is something I've been hearing about ever since I got to the island.  It's an activity where 30-40 weirdos get together and run through the uncharted jungles of Guam.  I went for the first time and spent two hours running through rivers, jumping off waterfalls, climbing small mountains, fighting my way through swordgrass, and swimming through pools of muddy leptospirosis-filled water.  It was so much fun!

I didn't bring a camera (this time...) but another hasher did, so I borrowed this photos from facebook.  Thanks, Hasher Gojira!

The hash begins.

At first everyone is really crowded together, but it spreads out over the hash.

Getting into the jungle.

First beer stop!

Those coolers are full of beer... if you want water you have to lay under the orange cooler!

The first of several large hills.  (The photo doesn't do it justice!)

There aren't really paths so much as vague routes indicated by yellow (biodegradable!) tape.

Basically straight up.  Fortunately people are pretty good at helping each other on tough parts!

Muddy water, and people trying to climb a small waterfall.  I watched two people fall off and then found a different route.

I think you can see someone falling in this photo.  That's me on the left with a big blonde bun.

Hash buddies!

All that swordgrass is super sharp!  Notice that there's no real "trail."

The views are hard to beat up there!

Hashing is a great way to see parts of island that you usually wouldn't get to see!

Lots of red dirt up there.

That's me in black!  Notice how we're all wearing gloves?  That's to protect our skin from the swordgrass.

Look at all that swordgrass!  I had about a millions tiny cuts on my arms and legs because nobody told me to wear long socks.

Post-hash party.  (Most people still weren't back yet when this was taken; a bunch of people got lost.)


During the hash there are beer/water stops, and after the hash there is plenty of beer, soda, and snacks to feed a small army.  It was really fun and I can't wait to go again!


MY CAR

Finally, after 2.5 months, I got Irma (my car) back!  The check engine light is still on, and there was a slight snafu with the oil getting clogged, but it all seems okay for now.  It may have cost a fortune and taken forever, but I do like that car a lot, so hopefully it'll be worth it!


PRETTY PICTURES

I've seen Oka Point from boats, but a few weeks ago I finally drove around until I found it.  It's very pretty, if a little dangerous!  I guess it was supposed to be a hotel resort but never got finished.  Now it's a great place to watch the sunset!

Oka Point is a cliff, but there are (semi-dangerous) concrete steps that lead down closer to the water.  Not too close, because the waves are pretty crazy there, but close enough to get wet!

Remember that you can click on photos to see them bigger!

As you can see, the steps are old and have no railings and are kiiinda crumbling.

At the top of the cliff is railing, which I would NOT lean against because at least half of it is missing.  People seem to throw trash off the top a lot, which is sad.  Why do people feel like it's okay to litter on such a beautiful island?  I'll never figure it out.

You can see how part of the railing at the top is missing.  Good thing the view is worth a little danger!

A better view of the railing and the crumbly old steps.

There's some pretty serious wave action down there!

My phone has a weird "surround shot" feature, which makes for some unusual photos.  But not bad, right?


It's back to more diving this week, so hopefully I'll see some cool stuff!  Wish me luck!

Cheers,
Ashton